Sunday, February 13, 2005

Fort Greene Is Alright By Me

Feb 13, 2005

Brooklyn really grows on me. The more I explore, the more I find, the more I like. We took a little bike ride today, cold weather notwithstanding. It was one of those crisp, clear mid-winter days, the temperature hovering under 40 degrees. But the wind of the past few days had subsided and it was lovely for just tooling around on the bikes.

We headed north because I wanted to take a close look at the Fort Green Prison Ship Martyrs monument. It's said to be the world's tallest free-standing doric column and it has a very interesting history. Click on the link above if you want the full story. Briefly, this is the third incarnation of a monument to the victims of the British prison ships that were anchored in the harbor during the Revolutionary War. Many of the Americans, men, women and children POW's, who were kept on those ships died from terrible conditions to which the British subjected them.


Fort Greene Park in downtown Brooklyn.

For years following the war, the bones of the prisoners would wash up onto the shores of Brooklyn and Long Island. Following a great outcry and demands for a proper resting place honoring these martyrs, a memorial was built in the early 1800's near the site of the present Brooklyn Navy Yard. When that deteriorated a stone crypt was built in Washington Park (today's Fort Greene Park). and finally, by the end of the 19th century money was raised for a much grander memorial. It was unveiled in 1908 and was designed by the prestigious firm of McKim, Meade and White. It stands today, slightly faded, but still magnificent, 148 feet tall, overlooking downtown Brooklyn, the East River and the towers of Manhattan across the river.

The park itself is worth a visit by anyone interested in exploring old Brooklyn. It is up high and thus the park and the tower have a commanding view of the surrounding area. It lies a few blocks east of Flatbush Avenue, sandwiched between Myrtle and DeKalb Avenues. On the other side of DeKalb is Brooklyn Technical High School. DeKalb Avenue has come up (like most of downtown Brooklyn). It's a very sweet road that has some interesting stores and great restaurants. The blocks surrounding the park are lined with fabulous old brownstones whose value are now reaching astronomical heights. The entire area has a wonderful feel to it. Check it out. Take the Q or B to DeKalb Avenue (the first stop in Brooklyn after you cross the Manhattan Bridge). Get off and walk east down DeKalb until you reach the park on your left (just past Brooklyn Hospital). On your way home you can stop for a nosh of some of the world's greatest cheeskecake at Junior's restaurant on the corner of Flatbush and DeKalb Avenues.


The base of the tower is inscribed with this sign.


Stacey walks around the base of the column.


The monument is up high in the middle of Fort Greene Park.


The park is filled with fabulous, old London Plane and Gingko trees among others. A wonderful place to bring a picnic or a book and just hang out.

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